Beijing, Opera

May 3, Monday, Beijing, Opera

OK. The Opera was *not* included in Odysseys Tour. That should have been a tip-off.

And we read about Chinese Opera before we went - understanding that it was "an acquired taste".

But Kathy has always been an Opera Fan, so when Vivian told us that she had an "in" to get reduced-rate, great seats - to a special performance of the Beijing Opera - which had been specifically tailored to Westerners, we decided to try it.

We are on our own for dinner, and Kathy and I decide to just enjoy the roll of Oreo's and the roll of Chips-aHoy that we'd gotten at the Wal-Mart on our first nite. It seems "good enough". Then down to the bus since there are enough of us who decided to "Opera" it - to warrant taking the bus.

We thread thru the Beijing streets again, the bus pulls right up to the entrance, and we file in.

It is really cool that the performers are all sitting in the *lobby* putting on their makeup. It's part of the show. ,

We file into the theatre and we've got great seats: pretty much *right* in the middle - at a table which is set with munchies. Oranges (or at least some kind of citrus), sesame cookies, a nut-kind of thing, and some kind of pickled fig (I think). Kathy and I sample everything and they are pretty good. OK. I wouldn't try the green pickled - whatever's - until Kathy did, but then I try it and it is tasty.

A young man appears with a very VERY long-spouted tea pot - and proceeds to give us a little show just pouring the tea. Even behind his back. Pretty cool.

The band appears in front of the curtain and plays some traditional Chinese instruments. Then the narrator appears and describes the evening-to-come. Fortunately, there are big Opera-style translation boards flanking the stage so we can read - in English - what he is saying. The upshot is that we're to enjoy 2 Opera scenes - selected as representing the best of Chinese Opera. A scene called "Picking up the Jade Bracelet" - annnd - uhhh... another one. Hey... I'm a guy who has slept thru performances of "Carmen" at the Met in New York: arguably the best Opera on the planet.

And so it begins. The costumes are beautiful and striking. But. Well. We find out what is meant by an "acquired taste". Apparently the original opera that the first scene came from - was 3 hours long. This little scene is "only" 45 minutes. And I don't really intend to be mean, but the title "Picking up the Jade Bracelet" - pretty-much tells you the *entire* plot. For 45 minutes. And, by the way, the background "music" consists almost-entirely of 2 kinds of drums. No melody. Just a snare-drum-kind of thing and something that sounds like a "boing" cymbal/drum.

And that's the good part.

The singing. Well. I understand that it was executed just exactly the way it is supposed to be. Which is something like the sound of putting an alley-cat's tail through a meat grinder. Seemingly random wails. It is excruciating.

For 45 minutes.

Thankfully, I succumb and fall asleep.

I awake just long enough to admire the costumes of the second "piece" - and, mercifully, doze off again.

Kathy wakes me at the end - to tell me that it was.... different... Kathy has always been an adaptable person.

If anyone ever invites you to watch a Chinese Opera, trust me. Just say no.

We load back onto the bus and ride back to the hotel - admiring Beijing at night: many office buildings are using LED lighting to decorate - with spectacular displays. Not advertising - just pretty, fascinating, moving light shows. We haven't been out much after dark, so it is really beautiful to see.

And into the hotel to fall into bed.

Take a deep breath. We've now just finished Day 3 of our 20-day tour. Tomorrow we leave Beijing to fly to Xian.

Wow!